Best climbing slings reddit Using any other knot to join slings (including the edk!!): Some people have been suggesting using an edk to join slings. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Tie off one tree, set your masterpoint (hanging the climbing rope from the masterpoint for weight helps), adjust the static rope leg to the second tree using a tensionless anchor or a sling around the tree and a clove hitch on a locking carabiner. Happy climbing! It's also perfectly safe to clip in with a single sling, just scarier. Trying to get some input from other climbers here. Note that I'm talking about slings (flat webbing): The knots usually used to join cords and ropes work differently when in flat material! A mix of types works best, the phantoms are less bulky/cleaner, sit better on the gear and are quicker to place, so when you're climbing harder grades it is quite useful to have them. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Simple fix, don't use elastic. What’s the… Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). Slings that are bunched up like a girl's hair scrunchie have been twisted. Just make sure you’re checking the anchor every time you come up to it, or at regular intervals. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. Also you can get by using an Ikea blue bag for $1 instead of a $40 rope bag. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. A sewn kevlar sheath is the best option, but a tied 5-6mm nylon prusik loop is fine. I use double length slings shortened by a twist. ) Sounds complicated, and like you carry too many alpines. I bought a handful of these to temporarily replace some sus cam slings. Washing machines have bleach and other corrosive things put through them, bathtubs get cleaned with even harsher chemicals, and even the special beal rope soap leaves a residue. Even if I was at the park, having <8kN breaking strength on one leg of an anchor would bother me even though the force is being distributed across 4 when basketed. Using wiregate biners for rope side to prevent to help prevent rope flutter and solidgate keylock biners for the bolt side to prevent snagging seemed like the best mixture of safety and convenience. Learn how to choose the type you need. I hate climbing with a sling unless I am carrying more gear than a harness can carry (i. I’m looking to mark my quickdraws, biners, slings, and particularly my rope. 4 to 3). Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. Reddit attracts a lot of know it alls. Re-racking them is an extra step that can take a second or two, and is also a pain in the ass for the follower. if you want to improve/make it easier, get a daisy chain (looped, like the one grivel sells) instead of a knotted sling or even a normal nylon (not dyneema) sling. We are climbing on the bottom chord of the truss, and the top chord is a round tube that can be wrapped with a tape sling--I think that's the pick off point we'd choose for rescue. I was cleaning up my climbing gear today after an unfortunate incident during a muddy approach, and I started thinking about alpine draws. We will walk you through the differences between fiber choices, strength ratings, lengths, and modes of carry, suggesting different products for different desires along the way. Reply reply [deleted] minimum 8 alpine draws (60 cm Dyneema slings paired with two lightweight wiregate biners) Trango phase sets are the cheapest or find cheap wires and Dyneema slings at some gear shops and you're set. g. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. And yes we are scared of falling. The tricams are a bit odd at first but they can almost always fit somehow. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. 1. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. Keep in mind that the PAS and dynex slings you mentioned are made out of material that has very little to no stretch. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. This is an adventure-biking sub dedicated to the vast world that exists between ultralight road racing and technical singletrack. Manufacturers will tell you 5 years. 3 to 0. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Particularly, which configurations I had seen at the crag, what I use, and what the best options were for putting more together with my current stockpile of gear. However I like the way DMM just decided to focus on the gear rather than the profit margins. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Like everyone else, the Petzl Djinn are my favorite so far. Aid climbing). Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. It does when you pull it. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. The sling is 22kN, the cam is 7-12kN. Nov 9, 2021 · A knotted sling has more than enough strength to be a suitable anchor. Do you know someone in europe who‘s able to sew slings? Shipment to the manufacturer is out of the question as they support there gear only for 10 years. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. I would get 6x sling draws, cheapest and lightest you can find, 6x wiregate quickdraws, lightest and cheapest you can find, and 6x sport quickdraws with beefy dogbones and solid In terms of racking it's really not that much different from having a PAS and a sling (or two slings) as personal anchors. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Also Peak Designs everyday sling comes in 3L, 6L versions. The Pagan Mountaineering sling was also rated to 22kN and, again, broke at 20. 17mm slings also seemed like a good length. Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. com Aug 18, 2019 · In this article, we aim to help you narrow down your choices. Not sure what you need the slings, prussik, and locking biners for if you are just sport climbing. And it is also a quite good selection if you ask me. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. I'd Personally, I find the feature to be useless. I am a fan of the open sling because I trad climb. Crypto Typically still over 10kn. Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. Stress tests on undamaged slings 20 years out still show most of their holding strength. BD merely used what nylon they had in stock that wasn’t “too outdated” for $10/cam. A Loose dogbone will be better for trad since the floppy nature of the sling helps to limit the rope moving your pieces of protection. r/onebag is an 'urban' travel community devoted to the idea of helping people lug around less crap; onebag travel. I've never seen anyone use a sling, so I'm prejudiced against it. Maybe gotta sling a couple boulders and build into an anchor, or sling one really big Boulder, or maybe there’s just a tree! If I’m on bolts I generally will not do the sliding-x but rather tie a know to have a solid master point. If I'm at a trad anchor it's a backup to my rope clove hitched into the master point and it can extend longer instantly by choosing which loop I want to clip into, where as you'd have to either remove one sling and connect it to the other and tie a knot to get the length you want, or remember ahead of time to use a longer sling for your tether The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. All brands fit differently as well so maybe offering to purchase one in your budget is a good idea. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Slings are a bit short to benefit from braiding. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. Outside of visible damage, I wouldn't get a cam resling. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link that one sling or daisy chain to one anchor and a clove hitch with the rope to another is not enough for connecting oneself to an anchor? that would be two solid points, equalized (ish), redundant, efficient and with no extension. I really love their color scheme but my understanding is that I should probably replace the slings since the general consensus is to replace soft goods every 5-10 years. If all you are doing is sport then the sewn sling is probably better suited to your needs. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. What is the best way to adjust that long sling to be the perfect length so that I can comfortably go into the anchor direct? So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. I just wanted to call attention to the McLean sling. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. Just curious. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. The reason dyneema breaks in those videos is not due to the peak forces being applied, but rather the how dynamic the force is applied. All-road, crossover, gravel, monster-cross, road-plus, supple tires, steel frames, vintage bikes, hybrids, commuting, bike touring, bikepacking, fatbiking, single-speeds, fixies, Frankenbikes with ragbag parts and specs, etc. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. I'm lazy and usually use a single sling, especially if i'm just rethreading the rope to lower off, because I'm never actually off belay. Most any quick adjust/two-point sling from this list, or VTAC, Magpul etc. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. I would consider it completely wrong to say you should never use nylon, but I wouldn't start out planning on using a sling. I have a bunch of trad gear that’s in need of reslinging. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. . The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ I have a different experience with the post-2018 Adjama: I am right in the sweet spot for the medium size but the gear loops on the left are not symmetrical to the right side and are too far back, the gear loop stitching is loose (lots of reports of people losing their rack of cams on climbs), and hanging comfort is no better or even worse than Petzl's entry-level harness, the Corax. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. Elongation of sling material is marginal and irrelevant except in the special case of direct tethering to an anchor. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. I am using a webbing sling loop in a basket (pic attached) to move the ascender far enough away from my body that I can use the tail of the rope to body thrust up the line (and auto tend slack). The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. Even if you lost 50 percent of slings strength, it is still likely stronger than the cam it's attached to. From what I've read, soft climbing gear can deteriorate over time. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. I probably wouldn't even have one if I hadn't got it with a bunch of cams I bought used. Keep slack out of your static anchors. I learned on a Blake's hitch, moved the Blake's to a split tail and recently got my hands on a Zigzag. The home of Climbing on reddit. Business, Economics, and Finance. I've tried out some of the newer slings mentioned and they're great, too. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. Best is to have 100% full time monitoring but that’s not possible. Snag a set of trango or dmm offsets and that should cover you for most nut placements you'll run into I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. If you must use a sling through a thumb loop, connect it as a BASKET HITCH. is workable and it comes down to personal preference and maybe a few minor design innovations around adjustment, materials, etc. I personally think 12cm is a bit short to be honest, as I think it is more likely to lift nuts out as you climb above them, although you see pros using these Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). I carry 4 alpines (Ya it's different) and slings over my shoulder for cams. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic 305 votes, 96 comments. Sewn slings are safer, holding larger forces and don't depend upon the quality of your knot 2)Sewn slings are less clumsy. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). Doubling it up would make it too short. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. Trad and sport harnesses can be different with the padding and gear loop layouts. Friction generated by a moving rope is what weakens the sling. The blue black diamond one was rated to 22kN and broke at 20. I was looking at the Edelrid tech slings at REI the other day, and they seem to be quite a bit stiffer than most Dyneema runners. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. My slings all have one carabiner and I use cams racking biner for the other side. The issue isn't safety - your party will all will be fine, and if someone else comes along, well, imo they should be able to figure out what happened and not reuse it. what you do is the best and correct method. For around the BD#3 size I think there isn't much difference between the various makes, the main ones in the BD variants (UL C4, old C4, New C4), DMM Dragon, Wild Country Friend are basically the same cam with minor variations (thumb loop no extendable sling on BD, no thumb loop extendable sling on DMM, thumb loop extendable sling on Wild not a great idea. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Fewer items, packed into a single bag for ease of transport to make traveling simpler with more focus on the experience than the logistics. I have a peg board for storage at home as well. if it is, you did something else very wrong. If you accidentally shock load this gear (factor 1 fall), the adjust has the stretch to not wreck you whereas you will generate a great deal of impact force using the PAS. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. Hey lots of the comments are harsh. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb The first one was just a tied sling so it wasn't rated to anything other than the strength of the webbing itself. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. Hi all, Last year I bought some trad gear (1x cam from 0. Large slings is where i spent most my time. Tubular nylon has a smaller tensile strength than dynema, so sewn runners have the potential to be much easier to handle/lighter. Considering this gear has never been used and has been stored properly, is it safe to use? Upon visual inspection, they appear brand new with absolutely no signs of fraying, fluffing or wear. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. IMO no loops are required on a gear sling. but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. Yeah, this is probably the best way. Crypto Reddit iOS Reddit Android I always use a 7 point equalized anchor and at least one 12 inch thick tree with slings on it. What would be a first good sling and why? I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. The difference in service between Metolius and BD is huge. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. I use a long ass sling and keep it racked as a quad on my harness (my home crag offers a lot of options from multi pitch to TR in a given day), but does anyone like 7mm better as far a keeping a dedicated quad racked? Had a fun and easy 6-pitch climb on the Falkenstein in the Elbe Sandstone region here in Saxony with 2 of my friends. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. e. Reply It's absolutely safe to girth 2 slings to your belay loop and clip each sling to its own coldshut. The ease of adjustment is really the best part, unlike the Metolius PAS you don't have to unclip anything to shorten or extend your distance to your anchor which is great. Topo designs quickpack. I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). Best advice would be to see what he is planning on using it for. girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength). I did a bunch of research on rope cleaning and in the end, I just ended up using warm water in a new (important factor) bin and it was fine. Keep in mind that draws with a stiff dogbone (the sling connecting the biners) are more appropriate for sport climbing. People build anchors with slings on multipitches where the sling can potentially take even factor 2 falls and are rated to a minimum of 22 kN. So take them when climbing limestone with small and odd shaped pockets especially (won’t need the big cams there). A double length sling is also useful for aiding through hard cruxes if you don't want to bail. are all fair game here. There have been zero situations in my climbing career where I found myself wishing for the extendable sling feature. If you see braids, it's probably webbing in a "daisy chain". As others have said. It’s a good enough anchor. Dyneema is significantly more static than nylon so it essentially has no stretch so the the deceleration from a fall directly onto it occurs over a much shorter relative timespan compared to the nylon. I personally think mixed slings offer the best compromise. Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. I don't know the name, but the idea is you clip one end of the sling, twist it so many times it starts to bunch, and then clip the other end to the same carabiner. Or two singles. I had picked up some older draws that have mainly Black Diamond biners and Petzl slings but they're pretty old. The benefits of a clean nose carabiner really make a difference on bolts. I haven't used really expensive ones like the Spirits or the BD Livewire and don't really feel like I'm missing anything. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the… Wow this is about as much trad gear as I own, except all the slings and stuff. I'm contemplating making the switch to Dyneema. Holidays, even Presidents Day, and 3-day weekends like Memorial and Labor tend to be the best blanket sales. See full list on outdoorgearlab. November is when sales also rocket, in prep for Christmas. IMO fancy carabiners dont really matter much for trad climbing and especially sling draws. Depending on your risk tolerance, I would say to replace dynemma slings within 5 years and check the date of manufacturing when you're purchasing. Choices here are pretty wide. It could be better. They are heavy, but burly. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. I mostly just use mine to keep my rack organized and in one place. Water knots are large and annoying and tend to catch a lot more than the overlap for sewn slings. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. Metolius cleaned, lubed and added new slings for $5/cam. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. The extension is marginal, nothing an alpine draw can't do better. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. nuts, extended quickdraw My thought was to start climbing… Currently using BD nylon runners, but I'm due to replace them this spring. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. 3 of my friends and I all have the same mammut infinity rope. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. March is one of the best "month long" sale times (and creeping a bit into April). I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. You seem to have a lot of insight, but to me, the thought of the lovable bums who make and sell gear just for the fun of it and because they love climbing and want to give back to the community is just too r I think there's a clear reason nylon is chosen for slings on cams after reading the article. Mystery Ranch Full Moon pack. Medium size you could check out the bellroy sling. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. com but the gist of it is: Absolutely no metal gear allowed on the rock, only textiles. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. You need slings for alpine draws (and maybe securing yourself where using the rope isn't the best) anyway, you need cordelette for rescue systems anyway, both have their use in different situations and you should know how to rig an anchor with anything you have on hand. If you want to know more about the ethics involved in climbing in the birthplace of free climbing, there is a good write-up on thecrag. 5 can vary from 0. When the rope is in play that is the dynamic component of the system. I'm sorry, but I just can't buy that. I do like having a few slings when sport climbing to extend wandering bolts and reduce rope drag. I think swapping the adjust for a grillon would set me down a few inches lower in itself, and when we're hanging panels over head it really pays to be in just the I've recently acquired some 10 to 15-year-old climbing slings and quickdraws. Agreed. I wanted to get Solid/wire mixed quickdraws at 17mm. 12 votes, 50 comments. All slung gear needs to be sprayed individually or have the slings covered with cardboard, but it's still a thousand time faster than tape or nail polish. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. Rated to 32kn so even when girth hitched to the thumb loop they’re still… I am a new recreational climber climbing MRS. A rope doesn't move while rapping. Climbing spec is relatively weak already, and tying a water knot in the webbing to make a sling will reduce that by up to 50%. Arguably the best climbing I had the slings on a few of my older cams replaced recently. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. They will take falls just fine as long as it’s part of a system with dynamic rope . You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. be careful so that the atc is within arm reach. The clipping feel is incredible. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. But when you set up to rap off, you go off belay and then set up the rappel -- this is where two slings comes in handy. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. Do not use any knot except waterknot or flemish bend for slings/flat webbing. Tom Bihn LGD is a beast, designs a bit funky in my opinion. Alpines are only for nuts and although It happens I hate extending them because putting them back, I think is a pain.
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